Lisbon is a city that really comes alive when the stars come out. During the day it’s pleasant to stroll around the grand, sun-soaked squares or browse the designer shops in the elegant Chiado district, but it’s only in the evening that the action really hots up.
Today’s hottest hood, the riverside Cais do Sodré, used to be the city’s red light district. These days you’re more likely to bump into hipsters and burlesque dancers than sailors and strippers, but the neighbourhood still retains a few of its rough edges. The Pensão Amor (Guesthouse of Love) doesn’t hide its former incarnation as a brothel – in fact, it revels in it. Now hosting everything from art exhibitions to club nights, it’s one of the city’s coolest venues, so be prepared to queue to join the fun.